Van conversions

The lithium battery for your van conversion.

A self-build or professional conversion is the opposite problem to a factory camper: you have the space to fit proper capacity, you just want the right battery to build around. Whether it is a Ford Transit Custom day van or a full Ducato off-grid build, our DIN range gives you real usable power, the weight low in the floor, and a pack that lasts the life of the van.

Build it around the right battery

In a conversion you usually choose where the battery lives, which is a luxury a factory camper does not have. That means you can size for what you actually want to run rather than what happens to fit. The trick is to settle the battery early, because its size and weight shape the bench, the bed base and how you balance the load over the axle.

The DIN case sits flat and low, so it tucks under a seat, beneath a fixed bed or into a garage without dominating the build. Because it is lithium you can use close to the full rated capacity, so a single tidy pack often replaces what would have been two or three lead-acid batteries, freeing up both space and payload for water, gear and people. For the wider picture beyond the base van, the campervan battery guide covers living with lithium day to day.

Sizing by base vehicle

A starting point by platform and build type. Conversions vary enormously, so size to your daily use, not just the van.

Base vanTypical buildGood fit
Ford Transit CustomDay van to weekender, SWB or LWBModest off-grid100Ah to 150Ah
Ford Transit (full size)Full conversion with heating and waterRegular off-grid150Ah to 230Ah
Fiat Ducato, Peugeot Boxer, Citroen RelayThe classic big panel van conversionSerious off-grid180Ah to 280Ah
Mercedes Sprinter, VW CrafterLarge or full-time build, inverter cookingHeavy, sustained230Ah to 460Ah
Renault Trafic, Vauxhall VivaroCompact day van, tight on spaceModest off-grid100Ah to 150Ah

These are starting points, not fixed rules. A LWB Transit Custom can swallow as much as a small Ducato build. The honest figure comes from your loads, which you can total in the battery size calculator.

Where the battery lives

Conversions give you options the factory vans do not. The three common homes:

  • Under a seat or bench. The flat DIN case fits the void under a swivel seat or a bench seat neatly, keeping weight low and central.
  • Under a fixed bed. The space beneath a rear fixed bed or in the garage is the usual home for larger banks, with room to mount the charger and fusing alongside.
  • In an underfloor box. Some builds drop a sealed box below the floor. The IP67 case suits this, with the caveat that the RJ45 comms ports sit at IP32 while a cable is plugged in, so keep connected ports clear of standing water.

Wherever it lives, keep it accessible enough to read the terminals and check the connections, and avoid mounting it hard against a heat source without a gap.

Charging a conversion

Most conversions charge from three sources: the engine alternator through a battery-to-battery charger, roof solar through an MPPT, and mains hook-up through a charger. Lithium takes all three happily and charges far faster than lead-acid, so a long drive or a sunny afternoon puts real capacity back rather than a trickle.

Plan the solar with the solar guide, check your charger and B2B against the charger compatibility list, and size the battery around the gap your charging cannot cover. Every TITAN carries a custom BMS, charging safe to -30C, and a lifetime, transferable warranty.

Common questions

What size lithium battery for a Ford Transit campervan?
A Transit Custom day van or weekender is usually well served by 100Ah to 150Ah. A full-size Transit conversion with heating, water and a TV is happier on 150Ah to 230Ah. Size to your daily use rather than the van alone, using the battery size calculator.
What battery do I need for a Ducato or Boxer conversion?
The Fiat Ducato, Peugeot Boxer and Citroen Relay share a platform and are the classic big panel van conversion base. Most serious builds land between 180Ah and 280Ah, with full-time and inverter-cooking builds going higher or running a multi-battery bank.
How much battery for a self-build campervan?
It depends on what you run, not the badge on the van. Total your daily amp hours, decide how long you want between charges, and match it to a pack. A weekender on solar can be modest, a full-timer cooking on an inverter needs a lot more. The calculator does the maths in a couple of minutes.
Can I fit two batteries in parallel in my conversion?
Yes. For large builds you can run matched TITAN packs in parallel to grow the bank, or fit a single larger battery such as a 330Ah or 460Ah where space allows. A single pack is simpler to wire and monitor; two gives flexibility around an awkward layout.
Where should the leisure battery go in a van build?
Under a swivel or bench seat keeps weight low and central, while the space under a fixed bed or in the garage suits larger banks alongside the charger and fusing. Keep it accessible, keep it off direct heat, and route comms cables clear of standing water.
How should I charge a conversion from the alternator?
Through a DC-DC charger, also called a battery-to-battery charger, which is what we recommend. We would fit a Victron Orion every time, as it gives the lithium a clean, controlled charge, protects the starter battery, and copes with the smart alternators on most post-2018 vans. A standard split-charge relay does work, but it is not the most reliable way to charge lithium and some relays cause a backfeed that quietly skims around the top 15% off your usable capacity. Feeding straight off the alternator with no relay and no DC-DC is not something we recommend. Check the charger compatibility list.